Hugging the shoreline of the Saint Lawrence, the North side of Gaspe is more rugged and less populated. The beaches are hard, uneven planes of black granite and not friendly to boats in most areas. This is a farming, lumbering and mining side of Gaspe, still a hard scrabble life today. Murdochville is an example of a town that once depended on copper mining until the mine closed in the 1980's. It once had one of the largest copper deposits in Canada, but eventually even rich deposits run out. The town is hoping for a resurgence as a new enterprise tries its hand searching for the remnants left from previous endeavors. Along the hill tops there are many huge hydro windmills, showing the changing times.
An oasis of beauty is the Jardins des Metis. We heard about this heritage site from a fellow traveller who assured us it was well worth the stop. Like Butchart Gardens, this site was also developed by a wealthy woman who had a vision and wanted something to fill her days.
Elsie Reford was raised at a time when women were to be 'flowers on lapels' of their established mercantile husbands. However, Elsie was dynamic, enterprising, curious and had chutzpah. She engaged in politics, encouraged women to become informed, discussed business as an equal around the after dinner table with men when women usually departed for the salon and sherry. She read the whole Keynesingan report and would hold her own in economic discussions. She was a salmon fisher, hunter, and horse riding dynamo, who made things happen.
At the age of 56, her doctor suggested that she should give up salmon fishing as too strenuous, so she decided to turn their summer fishing lodge grounds into an elaborate garden. She, along with Butchart and two other botanical gardens in Europe are responsible for bringing the rare Himalayan blue poppy back from extinction. This garden is every bit as lovely as Butchart, but carved in nooks and niches of the pine forest surrounding the lodge.
Further along highway 132, the river shores are just one delightful village after another. The area attests to successful dairy farms, with well cared for farm sites and land running the Metis/Acadian style, perpendicular rectangular plots bordering on water access. You can see remnants of former irrigation ditches along the fields.
Ile D'Orleans is a small island, only 34 km(21 miles) by 8 km (5 miles). This island was one of the first settlements established by Jacques Cartier in the 1540's. He first named the place Bacchus Island because of the abundance of wild grapes. The first settlers established their villages with the mandatory large spired stone or brick church, surrounded by stone homes with mansard roofs.
The Ile was the garden for the burgeoning Quebec City and once was filled with market farms. Now it mostly has some berry stands where you can find delicious fresh strawberries, blueberries or raspberries in season. Market farming is labour intense and people often move away from it. In many places, the farm areas now grow only hay or grass.
Montmorency Falls, on the edge of Quebec City, are another of Canada's amazing natural wonders. Unfortunately, as at Niagara Falls, enterprise and capitalist ventures to capture tourist dollars, have over developed the area, taking away from its natural beauty. Now there are zip lines, massive stairways, walkways, and a tram for viewing the falls along with hundreds of tourists. We find a shady spot, befriend a local gull, and have our picnic while viewing both the falls and the activities of fellow visitors.
Old Quebec City has the ambience and romance of many European towns. Established in the 1540's, there are buildings nearly 500 years old. The tiered city keeps you walking either up or down stairs, or sloping hillsides, past historical row houses of stone or brick, heritage and history seeping out of every view and crevice. Absolutely delightful. Our hotel Sainte Genevieve has views of the Hotel Frontenac. Our building is newer than some, dating back to the 1840's.
Where we have our morning coffee
Homes have been turned into hotels, and restaurants are everywhere. We find the Cafe du Paris, which seems totally appropriate, and celebrate with a crepe meal.
When exploring lower Vieux Quebec, you meander down into the former docks area. The fort and most habitation are on the upper level of the city, but down here was where the fisherman, merchants and traders plied their business. Temperatures continue to be uncomfortable and the air is smoky, so we take our time and stick to the shade whenever possible.
Taking a break, we are sipping our coffee and people watching, when a young woman asks if she may take some photos of us. She tells us we are a very charming pair and she finds us inspiring. We meet her Ontario parents, who are impressed by our travelling style. They are on a week-long holiday to the Maritimes so their daughter can check out the Dalhousie University in Halifax, where she will start classes this fall. So, in a strangers camera journal we shall last until one day viewing the pictures she wonders who are those people??!
There is a funicular, built in 1879. Originally it was water powered but switched to electric in 1907. I ride it up, while Wayne, to show his superior prowess or possibly his thriftiness, climbs the stairs 200 plus back to the upper level.
There is a 4 day festival on which celebrates the history of New France. When it cools in the evening, we wander over and see dozens of tent displays showing the wares and crafts of earlier settlers. There is lively Acadian music playing and a few folks get up and dance. We watch a presentation using English earphones. They have giant papier mache and wooden 'puppets' representing key historical figures. The animation is broadcast on a city hall wall. It recaps the history we have been exploring through our travels in this province.
Samuel Champlain had a vision. He wanted to build a marvelous city in Nouvelle France. Beginning with 60 settlers, most of which were soldiers, he persuaded the King of France to send people to populate this new world, including a shipload of Roi Filles, women who came from poverty to marry and build a life while bearing as many children as they were able. Champlain fortified the area and built his home where the Hotel Frontenac now stands. There is an archeological site where you see the former walls and foundations for the servants quarters under the grand governor's home. On a hot day, it seems to me the servants would have benefited from their below ground housing.
We leave La Belle Province with a renewed love for its history and respect for the people who live here, past and present. They add a richness to our Canadian story as do the many indigenous peoples who shared their land with us wittingly or not.
Belleville, Ontario also reflects a rich history with the many homes from early 1800's that still adorn the streets. Glanmore, a National Historic Site, was built in 1882.
This grand old mansion houses six tonnes (yes 6!! tonnes!!) of artifacts and paintings donated to Bellville in the 1950's.
Three of the Couldery family were renowned artists, in their day, but Horatio Henry Couldery was famous for his vast collection of animal paintings, 42 of which are on display here. According to the guide, "they represent the most extraordinary collection of Victorian dog and animal paintings in the world", a rather unique place in art history.
It is August 12th. We left home 3 months ago. For those who have joined our travel discoveries through my weekly blog, I hope you have enjoyed the journey. Perhaps it may even inspire you to take a road trip of your own. There is something extremely rewarding in experiencing and exploring our vast and beautiful country at one's own pace.
We are now rewinding our journey, homeward bound. I fear there will not be much more to discover, so this is my last blog for our Farewell Nova Scotia journal.
Wishing you safe and happy travels, wherever you go, even if you stay in your armchair to do it.
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