Strength in Diversity

Strolling along the waterfront at Sault, you look across at USofA.  We see two large cruise ships docked there and recall our visit to the other side on our last trip here in 2011.  There's a sadness as I view those shores and think of the things we are losing because of the present American leadership.  We will not cross into the States this time, even though it would save us many kilometers and give us different views.

Dr Roberta Bondar, First female astronaut on US space shuttle, came from Sault

American Sault

At our campsite we are visited by a small bird who is fascinated by his image in the truck mirror.  We can't decide if he is being territorial or only narcissistic.  Whichever he wouldn't be dissuaded until we covered the mirror.

There are two Canadian heritage homes in Sault.  They are the oldest stone buildings in Ontario outside of Toronto.  

                 

                                                     Attached Summer Kitchen

Ermintanger was a second generation Hudson Bay employee.  He came to Sault  in mid 1800, and  governed the trading post, after it had been merged with the North West Trading Company.  Since this was on the waterways between Montreal and Fort William, the voyageurs came to restock, or to pick up furs that were traded to the post by neighbourhood Algonquins. He not only operated the trading centre, he had a several acre farm that employed local Metis and Natives in a variety of capacities.   Ermintanger and his Ojibwa wife had 13 children, so it was a good thing he could afford such luxuries as a grand two story stone home.  

Inside, some of the furnishings were supplied by descendents of Ermintanger.  The pine floors were covered with runners that were made of oilcloth that used old ship sails.  They had a piano, two sets of fine china and silverwares.    

The second stone building is more unusual. The North West Trading Company originally built a one story stone structure as part of  their fort in 1821.  It served as the munitions magazine. In the War of 1812, when the fort was burnt down, it and Ermintanger's house were the only buildings that survived.  When the Hudson Bay Company abandoned the fort, Clergue, a Boston entrepreneur purchased the building.  He added a second floor to the battery and used the main floor for his office and small meeting room, while he lived upstairs.  This fellow was a mover and shaker, trying numerous enterprises first in the US and then Canada, Iran and Russia.  Here at Sault, he came in strong.  A glib tongue, dynamic personality and big ideas guy, he easily found backers for various enterprises.  He built an electric company, foundry, grist mill, among other industries and was hailed as a hero by locals, employing hundreds of people from the community.  When an agreement with Tsar Nicholas for explosive cannon balls, back-fired (pun intended), was lost due to the Russian Revolution, he became strapped for cash and couldn't pay his workers.  He left town for greener shores leaving behind 500 very angry employees.  They rioted and destroyed some of Clergue's holdings, until their anger abated.  By the time the National Guard from Ottawa arrived a few days later, everyone had settled into the reality of unemployment.   It seems Clergue went on to begin many more endeavors and died a wealthy man.

Clergue's Blockhouse

August 4:  The countryside opens up past Sault Ste Marie.  There are still plenty of lakes, maples, poplars and pines, but also more farms and small communities along the way.   It's another picturesque drive, with little spots for breaks along the way.

 at Wawa

The heat and humidity build as we approach North Bay.  We spend time in the cool library and Wayne spends hours in the campsite pool.

Monument made from a variety of types of rock and natural fibers.

Mayflies are abundant and will alight on anything that stays still for too long.  A reason to keep moving along in North Bay.

Sunday, July 6:  Gatineau, PQ

People who live in the Ottawa area during summer never need to invest in saunas.  They just have to step outdoors to feel the sheet of warm wet air envelop them.  As we spend time unloading the camper for a four day stop here, we become sweaty and exhausted of any good humour we may have had left.  Luckily the shower in our accommodations works well, and we both are refreshed by the cooling water spray. 

The area we are staying in is across the river from the Parliament buildings.  It is a rather odd mix of governmental offices, high rises, new hotels and abandoned houses filled with graffiti.  There are several interesting highlights to brighten the side streets.  We especially like a narrow one filled with patio eateries, vast flower pots and old brick buildings.  

There was a fire here in 1900, which destroyed 50% of the area and 20% of Ottawa.  We wonder how the fire got across the wide river.  The few stone and brick structures that survived have been given a second chance and are incorporated into modern buildings.

Remember Eddy matches?  They were a staple of my childhood.  Little cardboard boxes of wooden matches with black and white tops.  I was always impressed by my Dad's ability to light one using his thumbnail while holding the match.  The company eventually created safety matches by keeping the phosphorus off the match head and putting it in the sandpaper scratch pad on the side of the box.  Anyway, it turns out the original Eddy match company was founded here.  

This area has several art installations that explore themes of diversity, our reactions to urban environments and nature.  We stroll around many during our stay.  Although I can decipher about 40% accurately, its helpful that the signs are also in English.

Walked around the Parliament Buildings.  Lots of remedial construction happening to give the old structures a clean up and face lift.  The Rideau Canal, built in 1825-1845, runs 212 km adjoining streams, rivers, canals and lakes between Ottawa and Kingston.  It is considered a World Heritage site.  Due to construction barricades and city infringements, we couldn't walk very far along it.

My Artsy reflection photo - old buildings reflected in modern glass one,

Today we visited the Museum of History (formerly Museum of Civilization).  This is another revisit for us but well worth a second viewing.  The architecture of the building is in itself inspiring. Canadian Douglas Cardinal designed it to flow, to appear like the Ottawa River flowing through time.  It is airy, and wonderfully laid out. We 'flow' through time, from 8000 years ago to present at this site, and in Canada, in general.  Sharing some of what we viewed with you below:

 

Looking Down the spiral stairs

When looking up from spiral stairs

Birch bark canoe

This relic was found at a burial site.  The body buried with it was of a 40 year old male First Nations.  A journal of his life was carved in this bone.

Our camper has been giving us problems for the past week.  A lot of shuddering when idling and losing power on the hills.  Of course, we first noticed this on July 1 and there weren't any open garages.  Most 'service stations' only provide gas these days.  We tried calling places along the way: at Sault, North Bay...trying to find an open place that fit our travel itinerary.  We finally got it into a garage yesterday. It's a bigger problem than the spark plugs and the garage continues to work on it.  Only 5/8 cylinders were firing when they received it.  They now have repaired 2, but the third one needs more work.  We have had to rearrange our plans, and shall be another night in Gatineau.  A bit upscale tomorrow as we pack our stuff down the street to a hotel.  Hopefully, shall be able to leave on the place today, July 8, in Ottawa.  Hoping for the best but won't know until tomorrow. Best laid plans...sigh.